Imagine setting out from India on an adventure to one of Africa’s most isolated countries. Eritrea feels like a time capsule. The capital, Asmara, is full of vintage cars and Italian-era architecture. The countryside is dotted with reminders of a different era.

The Internet is almost nonexistent. Only a few hotel Wi-Fi spots offer slow, dial-up-speed connections. Currency and payment methods reflect Eritrea’s isolation. You must bring all your cash (US dollars) because ATMs and cards don’t work here. In many ways, Eritrea is unlike any other country.

Asmara’s downtown has a strong Italian flavor. It’s nicknamed “Piccola Roma” and is filled with grand Art Deco buildings and coffeehouses straight out of the 1930s. Yellow vintage Fiat taxis and clunky Soviet buses rumble by on palm-lined streets. Power outages and strict controls mean life often feels frozen in time. Surprisingly, Eritrea even has no new-car dealerships. No modern cars are sold in the capital.

This former Italian colony preserved its fascist-era gems. Asmara is a UNESCO World Heritage city for its modernist buildings. In short, Eritrea is a living museum. Ancient churches, Art Deco theaters, and centuries-old customs await travelers. Before setting foot here, I knew I was in for something unique.

First Impressions of Asmara

As I wandered Asmara’s streets, palm trees and vintage taxis framed stunning colonial buildings. The city’s cathedral and retro Opera House recall its Italian past.

Walking the streets felt like stepping back in time. Yellow taxis buzzed past. Mid-century motorbikes whirred along. Locals rode old British-made bicycles. Many old Fiats, remnants of the Italian era, lined the streets. Even the famous Fiat Tagliero gas station, with its distinctive wings, stood proudly. Historic cinemas, like Cinema Impero (built 1937), still show faded neon signs.

Asmara truly is different. UNESCO recognized the city center as a World Heritage Site for its modernist buildings. Unlike other African capitals, Asmara is organized and peaceful. Students walk to school in neat uniforms. Families chat over tea on café patios. Donkeys carry goods through back alleys. The vibe here is old-world charm.

How to Get There: Routes and Flights

Getting to Eritrea from India requires connecting flights. There are no direct flights. Most travelers fly through Middle Eastern or African hubs.

Popular routes include:

• Ahmedabad → Asmara via Dubai (Emirates/Flydubai): ~11h15m, ~$410–1700
• Mumbai → Asmara via Dubai (Flydubai/Emirates): ~8h20m, ~$370–1500
• Delhi → Asmara via Dubai (Emirates): ~10h55m, ~$380–1800
• Delhi → Asmara via Jeddah (Flynas): ~13h10m, ~$290–1000
• Ahmedabad → Asmara via Jeddah (Flynas): ~12h05m, ~$310–900
• Cairo → Asmara (EgyptAir): ~2h45m, ~$480–1700

Most travelers fly through Dubai or Jeddah. Qatar Airways and Kuwait Airways are alternatives via Doha or Kuwait City. Expect at least 8–12 hours of flight time. The distance from India to Eritrea is about 3,650 km.

One-way fares, if booked early, can be as low as $295. Ticket prices often range from $300–$1000 depending on season.

Why No Land Route?

Eritrea is sealed off by land. The only official border with Ethiopia is closed. Borders with Sudan and Djibouti are heavily controlled or closed. The only entry is by plane. Eritrea’s busiest airport handles only 2–5 flights per day. Land travel for foreigners is not possible.

Visa and Entry Requirements

Indian citizens cannot get an eVisa or visa on arrival. A tourist visa must be obtained from the Eritrean Embassy weeks in advance. Only a paper embassy visa is possible.

Requirements include:

• Passport valid for at least 6 months
• Photos
• Travel itinerary

Tourist visas are usually valid for up to 6 months but are non-extendable.

Currency and Packing Tips

Bring US dollars in cash. Credit and debit cards don’t work. ATMs are not available. The local currency, Nakfa, is tightly controlled. Foreigners cannot buy local SIM cards or use international roaming.

Internal travel outside Asmara may require permits or be restricted.

Flying Over: Journey to Asmara

I departed India in the evening. After a layover, our plane descended into Asmara under a moonlit sky. The airport was quiet. Eritrea gets very few visitors.

A yellow taxi awaited me. It was an old car that screamed with each gear change. I negotiated a flat fare. Streets were dark except for a few streetlights along Harnet Avenue. The taxi’s dashboard looked antique. Driving through the quiet city, I felt how different life here was.

At the Crystal Hotel, the clerk welcomed me with a local beer. Electricity is often switched off at night. I finally fell asleep after 36 hours of travel, wrapped in a fleece blanket.

Discovering Asmara

Morning light revealed clear skies and cool weather. Asmara sits over 2,300 m above sea level. Even on the equator, days are mild.

Cafés lined Harnet Avenue. Locals sipped espresso while I held a cappuccino. The broad sidewalks and Art Deco facades felt like 1930s Europe.

The streets are dotted with vintage cars and old bicycles. Life moves slower. People aren’t glued to screens. Old-world charm prevails.

Top Attractions in the Capital

• Opera House – Italian-era theater
• Cathedral of Asmara – Lombard-Romanesque style
• Cinema Impero – 1937 classic cinema
• Piazza Barattolo – roundabout with colonial charm

In the evening, I tried injera with zigni, a traditional stew, along with Asmara lager. The flavors matched the city’s vintage vibe.

Day Trips: Keren and Massawa

Keren – 3–4 hours west by shared bus

• Green highlands, relaxed atmosphere
• Requires special permits for foreigners
• Sunday camel market (visited on a weekday)

Massawa – 64 km east by minibus (~3.5 hours)

• Red Sea port city with Italian & Ottoman heritage
• Hot, coastal climate
• Ottoman fort, beaches, small fishing boats

Optional: Dahlak Islands for snorkeling and clear waters (multi-day trips recommended).

Practical Challenges

Internet and Phones

• Mobile data doesn’t work for tourists
• Wi-Fi is very slow and scarce
• Only 1% of Eritreans have ever used the internet

Transport

• Buses and minibuses are old and crowded
• Roads are mostly paved but winding
• Yellow taxis are safe; negotiate fares
• Military checkpoints common on inter-city routes

Daily Life

• Shops use old equipment
• Modern electronics are rare
• Power and water outages occur occasionally

Safety and Etiquette

Asmara is generally safe. Crime against tourists is rare. Locals are welcoming. Basic precautions like locking bags and avoiding flashy items are enough.

Photography of official buildings can attract attention. Respect local rules and customs.

Budget and Trip Duration

• Daily expenses: $90–120 per person (meals, transport, accommodation)
• Hotels: $100–150/night (mid-range), $70–100 for guesthouses
• Flight (India → Eritrea via Dubai): ~$750 round-trip
• Visa fee: ~$70

Total 8-day trip: $1500–1800 per person
10–12 days trip (including Dahlak): $2000–2500 per person

Recommended duration:

• 10 days to see Asmara, Keren, Massawa, and Dahlak
• Two weeks for a relaxed pace

Final Thoughts

Eritrea requires planning: book flights early, secure a visa, carry cash, and prepare for slow Wi-Fi. The rewards are huge.

Pristine colonial cities, warm culture, vintage cars, and a glimpse of history frozen in time make Eritrea unforgettable. The inconveniences only highlight how unique this country truly is.